Chardonnay, Reconsidered: Five Common Myths Explained

Chardonnay is one of the world’s most widely planted white grapes and can be found in wine regions across the globe. Despite its popularity, it tends to divide opinion: admired by some, dismissed by others, often due to lingering associations with the overly oaked styles of the 1980s and ’90s.

Today, chardonnay is produced in a far broader range of styles, with renewed focus on balance and site expression. Yet, certain misconceptions continue to surround this noble variety. In truth, chardonnay is something of a chameleon; capable of producing wines that are lean and racy, or full-bodied and luxurious, and everything in between.

Here, we explore some of the most enduring misconceptions about chardonnay and reveal what makes it one of the most versatile and exciting varieties in the world.

1. Is all chardonnay heavy, oaky, and buttery?

This stereotype lingers from the particular style popularised in California, and repeated throughout the world, in the 1980s and ’90s. The heavy-handed use of oak during this period concealed varietal flavour and resulted in over-rich and unbalanced wine styles. The focus of most modern chardonnays is to find an elegant harmony between expression of the fruit and the hand of the winemaker. In fact, chardonnay is often referred to as “the winemaker’s grape”, due to its ability to be shaped by vinification decisions.

Chardonnay is incredibly versatile and offers enjoyment for every palate. It can be lean and mineral (similar to Chablis), bright and fruit-forward, or rich and voluptuous, depending on both the climate where the grape is grown, and winemaking choices.

Tip: If you enjoy crisp, refreshing wines, seek out unoaked chardonnay from cooler climates. In contrast, warmer regions and the use of oak ageing typically produce richer, more generous styles.

2. Does chardonnay's richness come from oak?

While the use of oak can impart rich flavours (such as vanilla, toast, and spice), much of chardonnay’s richness is developed using winemaking techniques like malolactic fermentation and bâtonnage (lees stirring). Oak can contribute flavour, structure and palate weight, but it is not the only source of the rich and creamy texture associated with fuller-bodied chardonnay.

Malolactic fermentation (sometimes written in tasting notes as 'MLF') is a secondary winemaking process that softens acidity and can add creamy texture. During MLF, bacteria convert sharper malic acid into 'rounder' lactic acid, similar to the acid found in dairy. A byproduct of MLF is diacetyl, a compound which imparts the buttery flavour and mouthfeel common in richer chardonnay styles.

Lees stirring is also employed to enhance the wine’s body and texture, adding silkiness and depth. Lees are the spent yeast cells and particles that settle in the barrel following fermentation. The more they are agitated through the wine, the stronger their influence, hence bâtonnage is used to develop silky texture and palate weight. It can also add flavours akin to brioche to the wine.

Tip: Once you’ve found a chardonnay you like, check the tasting notes for clues to the winemaking choices used to produce that style.

3. Is chardonnay always a ‘still’ wine?

Chardonnay’s versatility extends beyond still wine - it is also the backbone of many of the world’s great sparkling wines. Champagne, and méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines, are commonly produced with a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, and styles labelled Blanc de Blancs are made exclusively from chardonnay, delivering a bright, elegant sparkling style.

4. What food pairs with chardonnay?

When considering a perfect wine and food pairing, it can be tempting to rely on old classics: riesling and oysters, shiraz and steak, sauvignon blanc and spring vegetables. But in chardonnay’s case, its myriad styles allow it to pair with a broad spectrum of dishes.

Leaner, unoaked examples with bright natural acidity can be enjoyed as a partner to grilled fish, sushi, oysters and salads, where you may normally opt for a sauvignon blanc or riesling.

A lightly oaked style, which carefully balances fruit flavour with a little texture and spice, is ideal with creamy pasta dishes, roast chicken and salmon.

The most full-bodied examples call out for dishes offering similar richness: buttery lobster, roast pork, or an earthy mushroom and truffle risotto.

Tip: In researching for this piece, we came across some surprising pairing recommendations, such as a rich and oaky chardonnay with a quality vanilla ice cream, or a well-marbled cut of steak. Food and wine pairings are never set in stone, and experimentation can yield delicious results, but a good rule of thumb is to match the weight of the wine to the weight of the dish.

5. Should chardonnay be served ice cold?

Serving chardonnay too cold can actually mute its aromatics and flavour, and dull its texture. We suggest serving chardonnay at around 10—13°C to enjoy full expression of the wine’s character.

Tip: Take your bottle out of the fridge 15—30 minutes before serving to experience your chardonnay at its best.

Chardonnay in the Great Southern

The cool climate of the Great Southern is particularly well suited to chardonnay, allowing the fruit to ripen gradually while retaining natural acidity. The result can be wines that balance citrus and stone fruit character with texture, complexity and freshness.

Within the Singlefile collection, our Singlefile Great Southern Chardonnay offers a regional expression of this balance, while the Family Reserve Chardonnay explores the grape through the particular character of our Denmark estate vineyard. In select vintages, when the character of the fruit suits the style, we also produce an 'Old School' Chardonnay under our Small Batch collection. It pays tribute to the generosity and texture of chardonnays of old, while carefully balancing richness with an elegant finish.

Like any great classic, chardonnay continues to evolve. If you have written it off in the past, it may be worth revisiting. Its contemporary expressions span an extraordinary range of styles, from finely structured and mineral to generous, textured and complex.